EXPLORING THE HA GIANG LOOP
Ha Giang, one of Vietnam's most captivating regions, is nestled in the far north and boasts awe-inspiring landscapes, breathtaking mountain passes, and vibrant hill tribe cultures. What better way to experience this hidden gem than embarking on a thrilling motorbike journey? Strap on your helmet, rev up your engine and get ready for the journey of a lifetime through Ha Giang's rugged beauty. Here's our comprehensive 4-day itinerary to help you plan your unforgettable adventure.
Day 1: Ha Giang City to Quan Ba
After what seemed like forever, our grueling limousine bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang (approx. 280 km and 5 hr 41 min by car/bus) finally came to a halt. We finally arrived at QT Motorbikes and Tours.
Ha Giang is a humble mountain town in Northern Vietnam and while it’s becoming a more popular destination, it’s still very small compared to other popular destinations like Sapa.
There are a few home-stays to choose from and we chose QT Motorbikes and Tours because:
They run a motorbike rental shop next door;
They offered to hold our luggage during our four-day journey in Ha Giang;
They also offered a free night stay upon our return; and
Lastly, they offered tour guides that would drive our motorbikes, coordinate our sleeping arrangements, and also choose the restaurants that we would be eating throughout the next few days.
The reason we decided to have local tour guides drive our motorcycles is because I just recently learned how to ride a normal bicycle. I know — shocking, but for many Angelenos, this isn’t anything new and the thought of driving through unknown, foreign terrains was a bit daunting. Also, the idea of having someone else drive through the mountains for five to seven hours a day in addition to finding local eateries, locating sleeping arrangements sounded a bit more than we can chew. And to be frank, having someone that can communicate with the locals was priceless.
However, if you are used to riding motorbikes through endless switchbacks on uneven roads and that doesn’t sound a bit intimidating, feel free to ride through the mountains of Ha Giang without a driver or tour guide. We’ve met many travelers that were riding through the mountains solo or with some friends, and they were frequently at the same eateries and home-stays.
PSA — Just be warned that you will be going through mountainous terrains, sometimes slick from the constant rain that showers the mountains, uneven roads from landslides and natural erosion, and the casual laissez-faire traffic laws that exist in Vietnam. We have met many travelers during our time in Ha Giang who chose to do their solo adventure without a tour guide/driver, and they loved it. This warning is for those who may not be super comfortable on a motorbike and are split between making the decision of doing it themselves or with a driver.
If you are not comfortable on a motorbike, the Ha Giang loop is not the place to test that luck. Please be careful!
As for the rentals, the bikes were very similar to one another, slightly differing in size and speed. We recommend choosing a bike that best fits your body and gear needs. The next few days are going to be filled with long rides, so make sure you pick a bike that’s comfortable and sturdy. We picked our bikes and gear with the assistance of the shop owner and the two tour guides that we’d be spending the next few days with. Our drivers didn’t speak a lick of English, but somehow that didn’t pose an issue at all during our trip; our conversations were filled with Google-translated exchanges and tons of body language. After our quick introduction, the drivers filled our tanks and ensured our gear was ready and set, and the next thing we knew, the engines roared as we headed northeast toward Quan Ba. The journey from Ha Giang City to Quan Ba is approximately 50 kilometers, and right away, you’ll see why Ha Giang is one of the most beautiful untouched areas in Vietnam: you’ll be zipping through breathtaking endless green valleys, layered terraced rice fields, and a plethora of small ethnic villages, wildly colored by beautiful homemade tapestries.
There are no words to describe that initial ride out except pure bliss.
Until my driver and I took a tumble on one of the many switchbacks that covered the mountains between each village.
The accident wasn’t all too bad and fortunately, the bike was more scratched up than I was. This is when Mishi and I realized that the elbow and knee pads that were given to us in addition to the motorbike rental were not just for show, but we’re wearing them because of situations like this. As I inspected myself for any more injuries, I noticed that the very same elbow and knee pads that protected me also had other dented marks besides my own.
Ah, this isn’t the first time that someone fell on these knee and elbow pads, and I definitely won’t be the last.
But just as we learned as children — I quickly got up, checked for any injuries, and after seeing that the driver and I were okay, got quickly back on the bike and drove off as if nothing happened.
And just like that, we continued riding through the blissful scenery and upon reaching Quan Ba, we were greeted by the stunning beauty of the Twin Mountains, also known as Fairy Bosom. After exploring the serene Lung Tam Village and witnessing the intricate art of traditional Hmong weaving, we got to our homestay arranged by our drivers. We spent the night with some local cuisine and beer to cap the long but unforgettable first day of our Ha Giang loop.
Day 2: Quan Ba to Yen Minh
As Mishi and I are new to riding, we were greeted in the morning with some slight fatigue and soreness from our journey the day before. But as we remembered that another long day of riding ahead was waiting for us, we slowly got up and went straight downstairs to purvey the street food vendors that lined our homestay’s front entrance. We enjoyed some ca phe, loaded up on some banh cuon and xoi fen, and prepared for our journey from Quan Ba to Yen Minh. This leg of the journey covers approximately 40 kilometers and showcases the true essence of Ha Giang's majestic landscapes. From jaw-dropping vistas, including the captivating Quan Ba Heaven's Gate and the awe-inspiring Ma Pi Leng Pass, often dubbed the “King of Passes”, the winding roads in between the towering mountains offered panoramic views of the Nho Que River below. We also made a pit stop at one of the many ethnic minority villages; we highly recommend stopping at the charming village, Du Gia to see an authentic glimpse into the daily lives of the local mountain communities. We enjoyed a quick lunch spot at one of the local restaurants before concluding our second day of riding in Yen Minh where we found the perfect tranquil city to spend the night in to finally rest.
Day 3: Yen Minh to Dong Van
On day three, our bodies felt much better than after our initial ride and felt refreshed to continue on our beautiful journey. We felt like locals as we quickly grabbed some breakfast in one of the many hawker stands that seemed to always line the front of our homestays. We downed our coffee as we quickly continued our drive from Yen Minh to Dong Van, covering a distance of approximately 50 kilometers. Even though it’s already been three days into the Ha Giang loop, no matter how many striking landscapes, winding roads, and panoramic views we saw, we never stopped smiling at the unrealistic beauty of this region.
As we were approaching Dong Van, we made a quick photo opportunity at the iconic Dong Van Karst Plateau UNESCO Global Geopark, where we saw the incredible geological wonders that have shaped this region over millions of years.
As we reached Dong Van Ancient Town, the tiny town appeared to stand still, with its remarkable architecture and vibrant street markets. When we were there in November, there was a local festival that was happening in this small, charming town. Locals and tourists were out and about, street food vendors lined the streets while performances were being held at the town center. It wasn’t too long before our drivers flagged us down to eat a warm hot pot meal of vegetables and black chicken (a local delicacy). After the delicious and filling meal, we took a stroll around town to check out the festivities and shortly after, went to bed to prepare ourselves for our last day in Ha Giang.
Day 4: Dong Van to Ha Giang City
On our final day, we left Dong Van behind and started heading back to Ha Giang City. This leg of the journey is approximately 150 kilometers and was probably the hardest. Our bodies felt extremely fatigued by the previous days of riding, and this particular part of the trip was the longest of the four. But with any great view, the pinnacle of all great views was awaiting us at the end of our loop.
Throughout the day, we stopped at various viewpoints, including the Lung Cu Flagpole, marking Vietnam's northernmost point. This region was something that was beyond our expectations. The mountains and valleys that divided the land between Vietnam and China seemed to lay endlessly, with rice terraces infinitely layering each hill.
We were left speechless at the vastness of the landscape.
After savoring our last moments in this beautiful region, we quickly rode back down the last stretch, relishing our sense of accomplishment and bidding farewell to the mesmerizing beauty of Ha Giang.
Motorbiking through Ha Giang is an adventure that will leave a lasting impression on your heart and mind. The intimate connection with nature, the rich cultural encounters, and the adrenaline rush of riding through awe-inspiring landscapes make it an experience like no other. So, hop on a motorbike, embrace the unknown, and let Ha Giang mesmerize you on a journey of a lifetime!
